There is something inherently magical about London in the autumn. The crisp breeze, golden leaves crunching underfoot, and the glittering window displays along the bustling city streets that make it the ultimate season for a spot of shopping and a delicious lunch.
My daughter and I spent an afternoon shopping together in the heart of London, weaving our way through Soho’s vibrant streets. By the time our feet started aching and our shopping bags began to pile up, we knew that it was time to refuel and was so happy to stumble upon a true Soho institution: Mildreds!
A Little Piece Of History & Soul
Long before plant-based dining was ever mainstream, Mildreds first opened its doors on Greek Street back in 1988. Founded by Jane Muir and Diane Thomas, it was a time when vegetarian food options in the UK often leaned heavily toward the beige and boring side.
But Mildreds carved out a rebellious, delicious path for us all. Their mission was simple yet ambitious, to lovingly serve incredible, internationally inspired food to the discerning nighthawks and daytime wanderers of Soho.
Decades later, it remains a beloved local landmark. While they have undoubtedly grown and evolved, transitioning to a fully 100% plant-based menu, their core philosophy hasn’t changed. Led by long-standing executive chef Sarah Wasserman alongside a brilliant international kitchen team, the menus are months in the making, and meticulously crafted, tested and reimagined to celebrate vegetables throughout global techniques.
Such Warmth In The Heart Of The City
Walking into a Mildreds restaurant feels like stepping into an effortlessly stylish, bustling sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Housed within Soho’s iconic architecture, the atmosphere is effortlessly cool yet deeply welcoming.
It’s unpretentious, buzzing with lively chatter, and filled with the most comforting aromas of spices, fresh herbs and sweet baked treats. The service is always so exceptionally warm and friendly, making you feel instantly looked after and appreciated, from the very moment you step through the door. If only every dining establishment could be so considerate.
Our Autumn Tasting Feast
Instead of ordering individual starters and mains, my daughter and I opted for a sharing plates style lunch, which I personally feel is the absolute best way to experience Mildreds. Rather than being just a meal, it turns lunch into an interactive food adventure where you get to sample a little bit of everything, together!
Our delightful lunchtime line-up comprised of the most delicious dishes, including sourdough and shiitake whipped silken tofu, arancini alla vodka, oyster mushroom and hispi shawarma, and sweet potato beetroot tortellini. My mouth is watering again just thinking about it.
Having share plates meant that we could help ourselves to as little, or as much, of each dish that we liked. We joyfully traded additional bites of one dish for a swap of another, making lunch such a beautiful mother and daughter bonding experience, as opposed to watching each other eat lunch.
Where to begin, with such a feast of dishes there is literally something for everyone; from the crisp roast garlic coating of the sourdough with a comfortingly fluffy inside, to the rich and earthy, beautifully whipped shiitake silken tofu.
I am beyond obsessed with arancini, and the Arancini Alla Vodka was just as exceptional as I knew it would be, with the most golden, crunchy-coated risotto fritters paired with a rich, tangy vodka and tomato sauce that melted in the mouth.
The Oyster Mushroom & Hip Shawarma was bursting with aromatic Middle Eastern spices, making it beautifully smoky and tender alongside such vibrant herbs. On a smooth bed of sweet potato with a charred gravy, it may well become my new Sunday go-to in place of a traditional roast.
And finally, the Sweet Potato Beetroot Tortellini stole the show for my daughter, as the gorgeously tender pasta parcels were packed with such earthy beetroot and soft sweet potato, beautifully balanced with a hazelnut pistou and sage.
To accompany our lunch, we kept things vibrant and fresh with a fragrant lychee rose martini, soothing fresh lemon and ginger teapots, and a pair of freshly pressed vitality juices, along with still water for the table. I chose a freshly pressed carrot, apple, and ginger juice, and my daughter opted for an immunity boosting pineapple, apple, ginger, and turmeric which was so refreshing.
And because there is always room for dessert, we rounded off our lunch by sharing the sticky toffee pudding and a pistachio cheesecake. The pudding was just as decadent as I’d hoped it would be, with a warm, spiced date cake swimming in a glossy butterscotch, besides a scoop of luxurious vanilla ice cream, with succulent diced apples.
The pistachio cheesecake had the most velvety pistachio anglaise that I’ve ever tasted, topped with a rich cherry compote on a sweet and crumbly base. It was pure joy with every bite and we ooh’d and ahh’d our way across both plates until not so much as a crumb was left.
An Invitation To All Tastebuds
If you’ve ever thought that vegan food is more about restriction and eating bland plants, then the Mildreds Winter Menu will undoubtedly change your mind forever. Whether you are a lifelong plant-based foodie or someone who has never tried vegan food before, I urge you to give it a go.
There is an absolute explosion of global creativity, comfort and culinary passion packed into each and every dish that makes it more than just a meal, but a genuine taste adventure that can be enjoyed by all. So many of my friends and family love telling me that they’re going meat-free or dairy-free for one or more meals per week, in order to address a healthier lifestyle, and I love hearing about the new dishes they experience and plant-based flavours that they find so unexpected.
Beyond how incredible it tastes, eating plant-based always leaves me with a feel-good glow knowing that I’ve done something wonderful for both my body and the planet. Rather than feeling sickly, uncomfortable ot tired after a meal, I feel fuelled, energetic and able to take on whatever my day has in store.
Choosing plant-based meals, even if it’s just one meal each week or month, consciously reduces our carbon footprint, conserves water and gives our personal health a well needed vibrant boost of vitamins and antioxidants. You don’t have to overhaul your entire lifestyle overnight, just remember that every little bit helps, and it’s pretty amazing that it can be so delicious and enjoyable to eat well, thanks to how far vegan food has come.
Mildreds always have the most innovative and uplifting menus throughout each season, making each visit, whether it’s your fifth or one-thousandth, just as exciting as your very first. They’re conveniently vegan and vegetarian friendly, with dogs welcome, outdoor seating for whiling away sunny afternoons and ideal for catching up with large groups of friends for private dining and events. With six delightful London locations to choose from, they’re my go-to for staying well fuelled and always ready to explore the city throughout Soho, Covent Garden, Camden, King’s Cross, Victoria and Dalston. Which of their restaurants will you book a table at next?
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